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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.